When it arrived in the empty Tunisian hotel restaurant, looking like an oversized samosa, I was put in mind of nothing more exciting than a Findus Crispy Pancake. Not a great start. But closer inspection revealed that the shell was so thin that it had gone transparent, revealing irony greens around a white, egg centre. It was cooked perfectly, and as I bit through the crisp pastry the runny yolk oozed out, dripping down my shirt. Nice. So not a Crispy Findus Pancake, but a brik – possibly the best potatoey, tuna and egg pasty in the world.